New Orleans - the MUSIC

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1M1Iagf3GSs     

"down in the Treme

just me and my baby

were all going crazy

while jamming an' a havin fun...."

 - John Boutte   

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCNFmYoenmQ&list=RDFCNFmYoenmQ#t=77

(full version)

some would say I should have started with the music and not the houses

but the house were so obvious 

and the music not so much

we went to the French Quarter

where we heard some good live music in the restaurant near Latrobe Park

near the french market

we sat in the park - loved the statues

then we had to have coffee and beignets 

 down the street at the Cafe du Monde

the man loves good coffee

 of course it was packed with tourists

but we heard some of the best jazz there

didn't feel comfortable taking pictures of the band....

that night Willie went to Frenchman's St

and said he heard some good music

(they start after I go to bed........)
next night - even on Frenchman's not much music

 riding our bikes trying to get to the river 

 we pass the Euclid - holy crap 

the place where these guys recorded!

 hanging out where the greats walked 

 just across the street was this huge bridge over the tracks

 the only way across the river
I was like no way am I going over that

the pictures - and I knew they wouldn't -
just could not show the perspective of how high and scary this was
the only saving grace and what made it possible was that you could not see over the sides....

of course I did it and it was wonderful to see
the Mississippi River in all her glory on the other side

  these are not great photos as it was overcast and getting dark

  the mighty Mississippi River 

I had heard about it all my life - I saw it up north when I was younger and it was smaller

to see how new orleans was the river and the river was new orleans

to see it here in all is glory was somehow transforming



still in search of music we did some research
we went to Mimi's on a saturday night

and guess what - right - no music
great tapas though.....

Mimi's in the Marigny

well that explains why it is such a wonderful, interesting and happy part of town

we did have a great lunch in a little bar we went into in the Treme
running in to escape an afternoon downpour and the crowds

but no music


the last night we were in new orleans
we went to the Hi-Ho Lounge to hear some Latin jazz

we saw a play bill on the wall at Mimi's

and cuban food was advertised

perfect

when we get to the bar, it is dead and we almost left
then we think to ask about the food
- oh yeah, through that side door out back....

it was like alice in wonderland
the little door opened into a narrow walkway and onto a small back patio
that was not dead at all
very interesting people, many in costumes, great looking food going by
good canned music

the food was awesome
new chef in different locations hoping to get his own restaurant
a really nice young man came and hung out with us

but of course the Latin band was not showing 
and so a punk rock band was showing up instead

walking home later that night
we did hear a lovely singer being accompanied on the piano as we walked by a house
and we stood under the window for awhile

and a guy quietly strumming a guitar on a balcony somewhere on royal street

and later a lone trombone

next time (if you can stand anymore) - the food and most important - the people
of new orleans

houses of New Orleans

 the architecture

it's all about the architecture

Key West was just a small taste of wonderful old houses

New Orleans has actual neighborhoods

 of wonderful old houses and

 filled with some of the most interesting and colorful people

tons of character and charm here man

and unlike Key West, they are not a million dollars and everyone

was not fixed up by a banker from the mainland

I never tired looking at the houses the whole time we were there

here are some of my favorites

there is something about the shutters that I just love

so Caribbean

the work so well in the heat too
they keep the sun out and the air can still come through

they were built in a time when people cared about ascetics

they took pride in their craft

works of art and all so different

I especially like this one

these are all just in the neighborhood we were staying in

I wanted to take photos of every one but it seemed

too invasive even for new orleans

 I am always more attracted to the

fixer-uppers

these houses have more character and soul than most houses built today

aging queens they are

need partners for this one I think

 notice how the post is not actually touching the porch

we could fix this up.....

I sent some of these photos to a friend and he said,
just looks like work, I'm over it

(he is older than me I think)

***

the other thing I noticed very soon

was the evidence of the perfect storm they called Katrina

well actually called several things, many not printable...

 spray painted on a wall -

F - fix
           E - everything
 M - my 
A - ass

it is mind boggling to look at this map

the house we were staying in

 is the little strip of land between the flood and the river - top right

but the house my son bought, was under water to the top floor 

 as were many, too many others

to still see the effects of this tragedy nine years later

still so evident and to hear the stories 

it broke my heart

I could not take any more photos of the houses, lives and communities people lost

I also could not take photos in the cemeteries

though from a street over they looked inviting 

with their lovely angel statues

it did not feel right to be stumbling around taking photos

these are not ancient cemeteries, but cemeteries people are still using

still have family in

biking by we saw a tourist bus pulling into one and people 

hopping out with their cameras....

I did with my son's help get a couple great graffiti shots though

at an abandoned high school

at least some art is still going on there

then there was this wonderful old church in our neighborhood

originally a German church

 it looks Spanish to me

and next to it were some of the oldest crepe myrtles ever

 the street was purple from the flowers

they were blooming all over town while we were there
very magical

 and beads - what is New Orleans without beads??

they were everywhere, on fences, houses, cars, one street even
had filled it's pot holes with them - I kid you not
my son was too embarrassed to let me stop and take a photo

ah the houses of New Orleans - I fell in love with several

on the back of this card it says

"K's lamp.  Grasping this pole in a firm but sensitive manner K divined truth and remedies.  As it was her power spot she came back often."

artist - James Michalopoulos

next one - music